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Newsletter: Volume 3, Issue 3 2008(PDF, 642kb)

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Super ingredients for natural skin care

In our eternal quest for a youthful looking skin, we might want to remind ourselves of the key ingredients in many of the commercial products available claiming miracle results. In a typical commercial brand product, it mostly comprises of water and chemicals. However it can include natural oils renowned for their protecting and rejuvenating properties. But it’s worth noting that these ingredients are usually listed as one of the last (meaning there is very little in the final product). So if they are helpful in minute quantities, think about how potent they are in concentration. Commonly used natural (not naturally derived) ingredients include vitamin E, rosehip oil and jojoba oil. This is because they are tolerated by most skin types and conditions, are high in natural vitamins and minerals and possess wonderful moisturising and protecting properties. So if you want active anti-ageing skincare without chemicals, look for natural organic skincare as it will invariably include high quantities of any (or a number) of the following ingredients:

Blackcurrant seed oil is a powerful tool in the fight to maintain the health and complexion of the skin. It contains a balanced combination of Omega 6 and Omega 3 which are two fatty acids essential for metabolism and which are often lacking in a normal diet. This balance also helps keep the skin healthy and a number of clinical trials have shown the oil’s efficacy in general moisturising, alleviating eczema, reducing chemically induced skin irritation, easing rheumatism and restoring fatty acid balance. Blackcurrant seed oil is particularly good for dry skin disorders as the gamma-linolenic acid protects against the water loss that contributes to itching and other symptoms associated with dry skin.

Borage soothes and replenishes dry and mature skin

Borage is extremely valuable in the treatment of ageing or damaged skin. This is because it contains high levels of vitamins and minerals and gamma linolenic acid, a fatty acid that helps maintain healthy skin and repairs tissue damage. Even when used in small quantities its benefits are apparent. It soothes and replenishes dry and mature skin, helps heal scarred tissue and supports the reconstruction of damaged skin and other cell membranes. As a cooling herb it stimulates adrenaline production, so can help prevent depression. It is an old remedy for diseases of the respiratory tract and the flowers (tasting like cucumber) are a healthy addition to salads and soups.

Carrot oil is an essential oil in its own right, but is often used as a base oil. It contains vitamins and minerals with a high content of beta-carotene giving it amazing skin-rejuvenating properties. Beta carotene is the vegetable form of vitamin A which is a highly effective anti-ageing component. Carrot oil can be used for many problem skin conditions including premature ageing, dryness, scarring, psoriasis and eczema.

Frankincense comes from a small tree which yields a natural oleo gum resin and was used in ancient Egypt in rejuvenating face masks, cosmetics and perfumes. It has anti-inflammatory, cicatrisant and vulnerary properties making it invaluable for wounds, scars, inflammation and damaged skin. It therefore has a well earned reputation for smoothing out wrinkles and giving new life to ageing skin. Look for a rich night time treatment and apply thickly for 10-15 minutes as an intensive weekly treatment.

Green tea possesses high quantities of antioxidants making it invaluable for protecting and strengthening the skin against the elements and other ravages of ageing. These properties are in part due to the polyphenols capable of neutralising free radicals which can attack and damage the DNA of cells. In some trials, green tea has been shown to help promote the health and quantity of collagen — a key component in keeping the skin firm and elastic. As well as choosing skin care treatments, drink green tea in place of your usual black tea and benefit from protection against some cancers, high cholesterol levels and an impaired immune function.

Jojoba oil is a waxy substance that mimics collagen and offers very beneficial properties. It became an important commodity in the 1970s after the ban on whaling as jojoba has similar properties as the oil obtained from the sperm whale. With proteins, vitamins and minerals jojoba oil is tolerated by most skin conditions and is highly penetrative. It is therefore helpful in treating psoriasis, eczema, acne and dry hair conditions. Unlike other vegetable oils, jojoba oil is chemically very similar to human sebum making it an exceptional moisturiser for the skin and contains essential fatty acids which help nourish and rejuvenate. Dermatological tests show the oil increases the skin’s suppleness by 45% and with continued use can reduce superficial lines.

Palmarosa essential oil contains properties to help skin restore water balance and stimulate the natural secretion of sebum, helping to balance dry skin. With antiseptic, antiviral and bactericide properties, palmarosa can be useful in aiding the body and immune system in the healing process. It has been shown to be effective in cases of fever as reducing the temperature weakens bacteria in a cool environment. Palmarosa is a cytophylactic so it helps skin re-growth by helping cell regeneration and helps repair the damage done to the body by ageing, the environment and wounds. It is also helpful with general skin infections.

Rosehip oil helps the skin look and feel smoother

Rosehip oil is a remarkable oil with rejuvenating and soothing properties suitable for all skin types and conditions. It is a dry oil so it is useful for oily and problem conditions. Rosehip oil increases cell renewal in the epidermis and the cells produce more collagen and elastin. This helps the skin look and feel smoother, firmer and more supple. Research using rosehip seed oil on sun damaged skin shows the oil contains substances that retard the ageing process of the skin. Symptoms of photo-ageing, surface wrinkles and brown spots, were reduced, or in the case of spots, disappeared. It is the only vegetable oil which contains natural Retinoic acid and is the best source of Omega 3, both providing essential healing benefits.

Shea butter is a wonderful addition to skincare. With its moisturising and healing properties, all but the oiliest of skin conditions can benefit. It is particularly useful in the treatment of eczema and psoriasis. As a fatty substance, it will protect the skin against dehydration, has a natural SPF of 2-3 and with its high content of Phytosterol, will stimulate the formation and growth of new skin cells. Shea butter, along with cocoa butter is commonly used on the stomach of mothers and mothers to be as it can help fade stretch marks.

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Insomnia Causes are numerous, but commonly, stress, tension, anxiety or stimulants such as caffeine can result in insomnia. To help induce a restful nights sleep, do something relaxing leading up to going to bed such as reading, taking a warm bath or listening to soothing music. Ensure your bedroom is dark and quiet with plenty of fresh air; so keep your window open a little even in winter. A stuffy, warm room will prevent you from getting quality sleep. Add 10 drops of essential oils with soothing, calming properties to your warm bath such as bergamot, lavender or rose. Don’t drink coffee or tea in the evening as these stimulants can interfere with your sleep patterns. Instead try passion fruit or chamomile teas . Positive results have been shown through taking valerian supplements, which is taken about 1 hour before bedtime. It takes about 2 weeks to work and shouldn’t be used for more than 3 months at a time.

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Recipe: Softening hand cream

Ingredients:

Melt the coconut, wheat germ and cocoa butter in a bowl and gently heat over a pan of boiling water. When all ingredients are thoroughly melted, remove from heat. Pierce the vitamin E capsule and whisk, along with the vegetable glycerine, into the oils. Leave to cool until mixture starts to thicken. Add essential oils and pour into a low wide mouthed jar and leave to cool completely before covering with lid.
Use as required to soften and smooth your hands and elbows. If you intend to keep the cream longer than a couple of weeks, store in the fridge to prolong shelf life to a few weeks.

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Coconut facts

Coconut oil moisturises and softens the skin

Coconut oil (and butter) is a very stable oil which does not turn rancid easily, suggesting it has antioxidant properties. It is considered by some people to be a ’medicine food’ due to its antiviral, antibacterial and antifungal properties. Unfortunately, it has a reputation for being a ‘bad’ fat according to the oil industry. However as coconut oil is 50% lauric acid, it is fact a very healthy oil. Lauric acid is a medium chain fatty acid which is turned by the human body into monolaurin acid, which can destroy lipid coated viruses such as flu, herpes, chronic fatigue and HIV. Coconut oil also has other unique qualities: it is not digested as other fats and provides the body with quick energy and is broken down in the body by the liver very quickly. Despite being a saturated fat, coconut oil has shown to lower cholesterol, a direct result of the oil’s ability to stimulate thyroid function.

As a cheap and plentiful resource, coconut oil is a wonderful skin preparation helping soften and moisturise the skin, whilst helping to prevent wrinkles, sagging and age spots. It forms a barrier against infections and protects from damaging UV rays.

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What makes an ingredient 'natural'?

While many companies now claim to include natural ingredients in their skin and body care, it is worth remembering that as there is no governed regulated definition attributed to the term ‘natural’, many ‘chemicals’ are labelled natural because they are derived from natural sources (coconut oil for example). While this may be true, the ingredient has undergone a chemical solvent extraction process or has had synthetic additions added, rendering it very ‘unnatural’.

It is widely accepted that the term ‘natural’ refers to ingredients extracted directly from plants, animals or other source as apposed to being produced synthetically.

But while some raw ingredients are extracted ‘directly’, how many have to undergo processing or chemical reaction to extract the material and essence? – Well a lot actually. For example, what we often think as being completely natural are essential oils. Most aromatic and therapeutic plants are distilled to produce the essential oils, but this process produces chemicals that weren’t present in the raw ingredient. Some essential oils are extracted using solvents (Rose and Jasmine for example). Many ingredients have to be treated in order to access other properties, such as Palm oil which is chemically processed to produce an emulsifier, or coconut oil which is converted into an active detergent. By definition, a natural ingredient should be unadulterated, unprocessed and unchanged. Otherwise, can it really be classified as natural, raw, unaltered? In reality, we are not going to mash a carrot every time we want a rejuvenating mask or crack an egg to condition our hair. Besides, our skins need a fighting chance against the ravages of our modern, stressful lives. So what defines an ingredient as ‘natural’?

The ingredient must be:

So beware of companies making claims they don’t necessarily live up to. Those ‘organic’ and ‘natural’ cleansers and creams you’re applying may not be quite as chemical-free as you think.

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